Part Two: Ring of Kerry
Day 5, Kenmare to Cahersiveen
The Ring of Kerry is a picturesque drive in southwest Ireland’s County Kerry. It’s a 179km-long circular route with rustic seaside villages and rugged coastal landscapes. A Major destination point in the Ring of Kerry is Skellig Michael, a rocky island with an abandoned 7th-century Christian monastery. If you want to take a trip to the island, please book a good while ahead of time because all was booked out when I tried a week before our journey.
In a country made for great road trips, Ireland’s Ring of Kerry manages to stand out. We stopped at every single lookout point and saw breathtaking views of green pastures with white sheep and little houses dotted about. It is incredibly picturesque. You do travel slower when trying to hug the shoreline but we got to see more of the coast which is a definite plus. Sometimes you have to stop or reverse in the still-narrower lanes to let other cars pass, but that was not a problem.
Sneem (An tSnaidhm)
We have a quick stopover in Sneem, a very small village in The Ring of Kerry.
Waterville (An Coireán)
Do you remember the film ‘The Tramp’? Well, Charlie Chaplin, the English comic actor was most famous for his role in this film. He was an actor, filmmaker and composer and rose to fame in the era of silent film. Despite not being Irish, this silent film actor got a bronze statue in this Irish Town, thanks to the holidays he once spent there.
Sculpture (Árthach Dána)
Unveiled on 1 May 2019 in Waterville, The 6.4m-high hammered bronze sculpture is the largest sundial in Ireland and is a monument to nautical navigation in prehistoric times. It looks like the prow of a boat, the beak of a gannet and the gnomon of a sundial. The sculpture was commissioned to mark the completion of the Waterville Water Scheme.
After the sundial sculpture, we went zig-zagging farther through seaside villages…
Here are a few pictures I took on our way to Portmagee
On one of the photo’s you can see,
a man, washing his dishes in the sea…
Portmagee (An Caladh)
Portmagee has a lot of photography opportunities. It’s a lovely village known locally as ‘The Ferry’. Standing in this quiet village, it’s hard to imagine Star Wars being filmed here–but this was where the action happened!! In 2014, the cast and crew were drawn here by the other-worldly beauty of Skellig Michael and the surrounding countryside.
Cahersiveen (Cathair Saidhbhín)
Our stopover for the night was Quinlan & Cooke Boutique Hotel & QC’s Seafood Restaurant in Cahersiveen. We were a little concerned about the choice, as I am not a seafood lover. When my husband saw the name of the hotel he said that maybe it’s just above the seafood restaurant and that I will smell a fishy smell the whole night. Well, we couldn’t have been more wrong!! We walked into the restaurant, where a very attentive man helped us with our booking and showed us to our room. It was in a separate modern building at the back of the restaurant–very smart and perfect and new! We had a beautiful room with a modern bathroom and your breakfast is in the fridge in your room, next to the Nespresso machine for your morning coffee. Then, early the next morning they hang a bag of pastries outside your door. For my Celiac husband they left a cold-pack with salmon and gluten free bread!! well, we loved it!!
When we opened our eyes on the sixth day it was grey outside with patches of mist. On the news the previous night we heard that there could be torrential rains all over Ireland so this wasn’t a surprise. We decided to rush and get a few photos before the people arrive. We also had a long way to go and much to see.
Day 6, Cahersiveen to Dingle
Our route took us through Killarney to Dingle, but first we stopped at some ruins just outside Cahersiveen. Here goes a trip through time…
Ballycarbery Castle
Look at this imposing structure! Still spectacular despite its ruined state. It was once one of the most impressive castles on the headland. The public are not permitted to go near this ruin. Big signs on the perimeter say no entry, but it’s still impressive to view it from afar.
Leacanabuaile Fort
Just a few minutes from the Ballycarbery ruin, there are two other stone forts. It’s only a short walk from the nearby free carpark and you go back hundreds of years by taking it. It wasn’t raining when we started our short walk, but we just arrived at this fort when wind and rain hurried us back to our car so we did not go to Cahergall fort. If the weather permits please do both. You will have great views of Cahersiveen, the bay, the other fort, and Ballycarbey Castle.
We read about Ross Castle in Killarney, so ventured off route to see it. This 15th century Castle sits on the edge of Killarney’s lower lake, Lough Leane. There are quite a few historical myths about this castle, including that of a ghost who still makes appearances at the castle, so the dreary, grey weather made for a good backdrop.
Killarney town centre was very busy and it took us a while to get through all the traffic and find a parking space. You can have an exciting and informative horse and carriage ride through Killarney and the national park. The carriages are covered and there are blankets to cover up, so you should be fine in just about any weather.
We skipped the ride and opted to dry out in a wonderful cosy coffee shop. At The Lir Cafe I had the most delicious apple crumble and coffee.
From Killarney we took the coastal drive and came upon Inch beach where surfing is top priority. If you are into surfing and a cold swim then this is a great spot. Sammy’s restaurant, right on the beach, looks like a winner because of all the people milling around.
On our way cruising between narrow hedges we see a lot of these very green pastures and also come across three lovely horses.
Further on we find an absolutely magical, tranquil bay with big, rounded rocks forming a beach. This natural storm beach is considered one of the finest in Ireland. Just on the hill, not very far off, The Minard castle ruin stands proudly. You can just sit here and soak up the sun and tranquility.
Please tread carefully when walking on the boulders. Test each one before stepping on it because not all of them are stable.
Dingle (An Daingean)
Dingle was next. Arriving there, we first took a quick stroll through town and then booked into our Hotel. The Brenners Hotel in Dingle is a bit rustic and dark for our liking but the bed was comfy and clean with white linen and comfortable cushions. The thing I can’t understand is why hotels still have showers in baths. I really do not like showering in a slippery bath while the shower curtain keeps clinging to me!!
Dingle is a small, colorful port town on Ireland’s Dingle Peninsula, known for its rugged scenery, trails and sandy beaches–but there are quirky storefronts too, and they don’t disappoint.
Dingle is definitely a village for seafood lovers. There are a lot of seafood restaurants to choose from and we had a lovely dinner at Murphy’s pub.
Travel Snaps and (Gluten Free) Snacks 