When Erin First Rose
When Erin first rose from the dark swelling flood,
God bless’d the green island and saw it was good;
The em’rald of Europe, it sparkled and shone,
In the ring of the world the most precious stone.
In her sun, in her soil, in her station thrice blest,
With her back towards Britain, her face to the West,
Erin stands proudly insular, on her steep shore,
And strikes her high harp ‘mid the ocean’s deep roar…
– William Drennan
Because of its lush green countryside, first referred to in print by William Drennan in his poem ‘When Erin First Rose’, Ireland is known as The Emerald Isle.
And there is no mistaking this,
when you take a tour with me,
or go by yourself, you’ll see!!
We flew from London to Dublin on a Saturday evening and picked up our rented car at the airport. One tip: do not let your husband ask you to navigate a foreign city, in the dark, while he decides not to use the toll roads!
On our first night we stayed at Merrion road – Ballsbridge Townhouse and although it was almost midnight, we were met by a very friendly lady who gave us the ins and outs of the Townhouse and a few tips on what to see in Dublin. Slept like a log in the extremely comfy bed and got up at six so we could drive into Dublin and take some photos before the crowds emerged. Luckily it was Sunday so the streets were very quiet.
Day 1, Dublin to Carlow
The Temple Bar
This is one of the most famous pubs in Dublin and really is beautiful with all the flowers and red facades everywhere.
The Ha’penny Bridge
The bridge was assembled on-site, and opened on May 19th 1816. Citizens enjoyed ten toll-free days, but after that there was to be a 100 year period where they had to pay a penny each time they wanted to cross the bridge.
The Famine Memorial by Rowan Gillespie
These sculptures are a memorial to the millions of people who died and emigrated because of Ireland’s Great Famine (1845-1849). No event in history has had a more extreme effect on the Irish Community than the famine.
Samuel Beckett Bridge
Santiago Calatrava was inspired by an Irish harp rotating through the air. He designed this very modern but still functional bridge for Dublin.
Here are a few more Dublin snaps…
At about 2 o’clock we were on our way out of Dublin. Make sure if you are using toll roads to have enough small change ready and if you use the M50 you can pay at the airport before your flight back… apparently. That’s what they said, anyway, but we couldn’t find the pay station.
On our way to our next town we paused to take a few snaps of the surrounding countryside and also learned a thing or two.
Brownshill Dolmen (Dolmain Chnoc an Bhrúnaigh)
This is a truly massive stone tomb that is said to date back to the Early Neolithic period (4000-3000 BC). It is called a portal tomb because of the two massive portal stones that mark the entrance to the burial chamber. You have to walk 5 minutes from the car park because this site is in the middle of a field of broad beans.
Our next stop was Carlow. I feel you can really skip Carlow and sleep in Kilkenny. The hotel that I chose wasn’t that remarkable and is definitely not a Boutique hotel like they say, but what they really do well there, is food–our breakfast was great!
Carlow Castle (Caisleán Cheatharlach)
Carlow Castle is on top of a small hill and was originally facing where the rivers Burren and Barrow meet, but now faces a very modern building. The modern building probably now overlooks the river.
Very interesting fact about this castle is that it remained intact through many a battle but when it was leased to a physician in 1814 for a lunatic asylum, he wanted to create more space and decided to use blasting powder. The whole eastern part of the castle collapsed to the state we see it in today. Rather more space that he intended…
Day 2, Carlow to Cork
We made our way through a few cities today and Kilkenny was my favourite. We walked 11000 steps around this charming town.
Kilkenny has lots of beautiful churches and monasteries but is also a hub for crafts that you can find in the colorful shops along the winding lanes.
Mary’s Cathedral
This beautiful Cathedral made of cut limestone is situated on the highest point in Kilkenny so you can see it from far away. It’s been there for over 180 years.
Cathedral Church of St Canice & Round Tower
This is Ireland’s second-largest medieval cathedral and was raised between 1202 and 1285. Outside stands a 30m-high round tower, one of only a few in Ireland that you can climb.
Black Abbey
Such a beautiful small Abbey steeped in rich history. Although the outside isn’t so glamorous, please go inside and read and look at all the magnificent stained glass windows.
Here are a few more photos of Kilkenny
Rock of Cashel
On our way from Kilkenny to Tipperary we just had to see this breathtaking and amazing group of Medieval buildings set on an outcrop of limestone. You can see a 12th century round tower, a Romanesque Chapel, a Gothic cathedral, 15th century Castle and the restored Hall of the Vicars Choral. Please stop on your drive up and take a photo because the view from far away is so spectacular. You also get beautiful panoramic views from the top. I just loved everything about it.
Cork City
Corcaigh, pronounced [ˈkoɾkɪɟ], meaning “marsh” is the second largest city in the Republic of Ireland. The River Lee, which splits into two channels divides the city centre into islands. Although we stayed 2 nights in Cork City we did not see a lot of it, because we wanted to see all of the exciting villages and towns around Cork.
Day 3, Cobh
Cobh, pronounced Cov, is a beautiful seaport town on the south coast of County Cork. The St Colman’s Cathedral makes such an eye catching backdrop to the brightly colored shopfronts and in the early hours before everyone wakes up we took a lot of snaps.
The Navigator…
On the harbour front in Cohb you will find this unique and powerful Sculpture. It depicts the guiding force of a higher hand helping vulnerable human beings as we battle against life’s storms. The paper boat that he cradles represents the fragile nature of our existence and he softly places it down onto life’s stressful waters. He will always be there to guide us.
Here are a few more of Cobh
After Cobh we headed back to Cork for breakfast at the Hotel. We almost did not make it in time because somehow our GPS decided on a different destination… so after driving around for more than an hour we reach our wrong destination! Made a U-turn and finally had a lovely breakfast. I have to say that all our breakfasts and dinners were great. The Irish can cook! Also–getting lost in any tourist destination is part of the fun and you see much more because of that.
Kinsale (Cionn tSaile)
Kinsale means “Tide Head” and is a historic port and fishing town in County Cork, Ireland. It’s a beautiful town with just as many rainbow colors as all the others and many charming shops to wander through.
I have to say, there were lots and lots of people and tour groups, but for me that makes everything just feel more like holiday!
On our way between villages we tried to hug the coast and chose the small roads as near to the sea as possible. Here is one village we came upon in venturing off the faster, ‘easier’ roads.
Day 4, Cork to Kenmare
I really do have to make a comment about the speed limits. So you know now, that there are lots of small, winding, narrow roads snaking through Ireland. Strangely, in some places you can drive 80 km per hour on those narrow roads and then on highways it’s sometimes only 50 km/h? If anyone can drive 80 and not end up in a ditch or down an embankment, good for them! Please take it slow, read the signs–‘GO MALL’ means slow, and not ‘there’s a mall nearby’ like I initially thought–and remember to drive on the left. At some point in our road trip we decided that I will drive and my husband will navigate, because then, we both enjoy it, stay calmer and we don’t fight about every right or left turn.
Clonakilty (Cloich na Coillte)
Today is a gorgeous sunshiny day with little clouds scattered here and there. We drove through charming Clonakilty to Skibereen and Bantry. Clonakilty is a town located at the head of the Clonakilty Bay. The countryside is used mainly for dairy farming. One comment I can make is this: if you need a pharmacy, Clonakilty is the place to go. It felt like every second shop was a pharmacy!
Bantry (Beanntraí)
All of the villages that we wander through have their charms and colourful storefronts. Bantry is a gem at the head of one of Europe’s deepest natural harbours. Take some time to explore Bantry Town and have a relaxed walk around. Walk up town to Bridge Street to see the old Water Wheel by the Library and read about the history of Bantry in the town centre.
Between Bantry and Kenmare we see panoramic views of the sea and countryside.
Kenmare (An Neidín)
Our next overnight village is the pretty heritage town of Kenmare, meaning ‘The little nest’. I think this may have been my favourite town. Please stroll down all the roads. There is a shop to suit everyone’s taste, between the rainbow coloured storefronts with their quirky signs, restaurants, pubs and hotels. You will take so memories home with you. We slept at a fantastic Guesthouse called ‘The Happy pig’–definitely the best accommodation we had so far. It was beautiful and unique. The room was tastefully made up and the bathroom neat, clean and modern with a wonderful power shower. Breakfast was outstanding.
In Kenmare just 5 minutes from the town center we came upon this stone circle. The sun was already setting and we were alone and walked around a bit. Very peaceful and quiet after all the buzzing through towns the whole day. This stone circle is known locally as ‘The Shrubberies‘ and unlike any other ring in Muster, this one is egg-shaped. It was built in the bronze age (2,200 – 500 B.C.), believed to be for ritual and ceremonial purposes. The Kenmare stone circle is made of 15 heavy boulders. In the centre of the circle is an impressive boulder burial.
Travel Snaps and (Gluten Free) Snacks 